Backpacking the Lost Coast Trail: Mattole to Shelter Cove

The Lost Coast Trail runs along California's rugged north coast.  This area  is inaccessible to vehicles and is so remote that you shouldn't expect your cell phone to work either.  It is reportedly one of the wettest places on the planet and this stretch of ocean is wild and wonderful.  It is  also known for sneaker waves of unusual size.   While walking along its beaches you need to never forget that those waves are like lions waiting to pounce.  Many people have been swept to sea. 



Somewhere between Shipman Creek and Black Sands Beach

 I imagined this section of trail to be  a dream scape of rising mists, endless beaches, crashing seas and steep mountainsides covered in trees.  The reality was surprisingly similar.  What I failed to realize is that even though this northern 25 mile section is virtually flat, it isn't easy.  Not hard, but moderately strenuous due to miles of deep sand, gravel and cobblestone as well as just the overall slant of the beach.   While it could be hiked in two days by an experienced and fast hiker, three days is much more doable.  Three days allows for more flexibility with the tides as well, as some sections are unpassable at high tide.  A map of the trail and a print out of the tides are two items that you  need.  Note that the sections affected by high tide are passable up to 3.5 foot tides.  A bear canister is also required.  Beyond your normal backpacking gear,  I'd recommend rain gear and a tent as this is a notoriously wet area with somewhat unpredictable weather. 

Getting to the trailhead is an adventure in itself.  We were thankful we used Lost Coast Shuttle as it made the logistics so much easier.   We drove and parked our car at the Black Sands Beach parking lot in Shelter Cove and they then gave us a ride to the northern trailhead at the  mouth of the Mattole River.  This takes almost 2 hours along a small, winding  road. 


Trip Report: 

DAY 1: Mouth of the  Mattole River to Randall Creek/8.8 miles


Started hiking a little after one o'clock and the day was absolutely gorgeous with crystal clear sunny skies.  We hit the trail/sand with high hopes and big smiles.

Leaving Mattole River in the afternoon.

The first few miles are all deep sand. 

Dog friendly trail, but bring dog booties.

We climbed over Punta Gorda because after only 2 miles of sand we were ready for a change.   It felt great striding out on firm ground.  Who cares if you have to climb about 300 feet.  


Climbing over Punta Gorda

The view was great  and the wind whistled around our heads. 

Windy Point with camera strap blowing.

Soon we headed back down to the beach.  Flowers were just starting to bloom.


 Paintbrush

After resuming our beach walk  we came to an old abandoned lighthouse in a little less than a mile.


Abandoned Lighthouse

 

We've hiked to the lighthouse before, so we just continued on along the coast and stopped in at this love shack.  There are quite a few driftwood structures along the trail and we were warned that rattlesnakes often like to reside in them, so we banged our hiking sticks around a bit for fun, before settling in to have a bite to eat. 

Driftwood Lodge

 The next section along the bluffs  was easy  walking.  



Bluff walking is the best.



We soon came to Sea Lion Gulch which had a lot of sea lions.  Go figure.  They are noisy critters. 

Sea Lions

There's a landslide about a half mile beyond Sea Lion Gulch and it is now virtually impassable at all tide levels, so a new trail skirts up and over this area.  When you see a rock  formation on the bluffs that looks like a hat perched on a rock, start looking for a  wash that comes down to the beach and you might find cairns and even if you don't you will find a trail that bypasses this part of the beach. 

hiking inland

We soon came to this old homestead that marks the Cooskie Spur trail junction and we went back down onto the beach. 


Junction with Cooskie Spur Trail

About a mile further along the coast we came to Cooskie Creek, which had many great campsites.

Crossing Cooskie Creek

There was a lot of fresh water along the trail and we only carried about a  liter at anytime.  Purifying is recommended.


Waterfall on the beach

After another couple of miles of sand/gravel/cobblestone walking we came to Randall Creek and decided to call it a day.  We pitched our tent on the beach alongside the creek while another couple pitched theirs up on the bluff.    It took us 4 hours to hike these 8.8 miles.

Randall Creek Campsite

We enjoyed dinner, a glass of cabernet and a beautiful sunset.

Sunset over the Pacific Ocean

 

DAY 2:  Randall Creek to Shipman Creek/ 9.7 miles

 

Day two dawned grey, but with our spirits light. We were excited to see what we could see.  Right away we came to Spanish Flats and easy bluff walking.  FYI: If Randall Creek is crowded, Spanish Flat would be another great place to camp.   Spanish creek is a couple miles from Randall Creek but we encountered numerous little fresh water springs all along this lovely flat area.


Spanish Flats

Lots of stuff was washed up along the shore and many things looked like they came all the way from Japan. 

Japanese tsunami crate?

Watch out!  If you are a beachcomber by nature you might find yourself a few treasures you just can't live without. (Note the floats on my husband's back for the duration of the trip.)

 

After fording Spanish Creek we  came to one of the private cabins along the trail. 



Wild iris and the Smith cabin

From Randall Creek to Big Flat you get varied terrain. 

rocks/cobblestone



sand





bluffs

 

The varied terrain made it a bit easier on our legs and a bit after noon we made it to Big Flat.

One of the houses at Big Flat

Big Flat is known for its great surf break, but the only way in is to walk or fly.   There is a runway and a couple of houses and numerous campsites with driftwood structures to block some of the wind.   While we were walking a plane flew in, landed and picked up some folks.   We also met a guy who walked in from Shelter Cove wearing a fur and carrying his surfboard with a strap around his head.  Saw the most people along the trail at Big Flat. 

Looking inland on Big Flat.

 The next impassable section is right past Big Flat Creek, and we arrived there a few hours too early to pass.  So we enjoyed a leisurely lunch and watched whale spouts and frolicking sea lions.  It was still grey and there was a bit of wind, but what a great view. 

Waiting for the tide at  Miller Flat

 The tide receded and we followed what seemed like a throng of people around what only minutes ago was surf. 

Entering the now passable 'impassable' section

 A couple miles of beach walking brought us to Shipman Creek, and clumsy me fell in.  Good thing this was our camping destination.   We hiked 5 hours to get to Shipman, including the wait it was about 7 hours. 

Shipman Creek

 We enjoyed some dinner  around a campfire. I dried out my clothes and we shared a lot of good conversation because we had hours to wait until dark.  No visible sunset tonight.  There was one other couple camping at Shipman.  Most of the throng was apparently going further or all the way to Shelter Cove. 

Shipman Creek Camp

 

 There was also a ship anchored at Shipman Creek.



Pacific Mist

 

 

DAY 3:  Shipman Creek to Black Sands Beach Parking Lot/ 6.6 Miles

 

Another grey day that had me feeling like I was walking in a native American dream. 

Leaving Shipman Creek

 

 Raven was our guide.

Raven

 Buzzards made me think of the after life and continued my dream walk mood.





Buzzards

Fat seals watched us pass. 

Seals

While otters ate their breakfast.

Sea otter

Waterfalls jumped off the cliff's edge onto the beach where we walked. 

One of many waterfalls

 The sun tried to peek out, but succumbed to the dream fog.

Sun, trees and fog

A few miles from the end our little mutt decided it was too much and wanted to go for a ride because she was tired and foot sore.   (She wore her Muttluck booties intermittently, because we had to keep emptying them of sand and they didn't give her good traction on the larger slippery rocks.  Next time we want to try rubber Paws.) 

10 pound dog in backpack

 Walking, walking, walking on an endless beach.  Was I dreaming?  Was I moving forward or backwards? The sound of surf became almost deafening. 

all beach walking today

At times this day felt very long, at others, like no time at all. In reality it took 3 hours to cover the 6.6 miles.  For us, these 6.6 miles were the hardest because the trail is on the beach the whole way. 











Black Sands Beach

The last mile or so was the wide open space of  Black Sands Beach, and our little mutt wanted down to run around and finish up the hike in style.   And she did.  And we did just in time to grab a burger for lunch.   

 

 

 

A video slideshow of our hike.